IWU Environmental Wellness: Safer Path: What's Itching You? The Rub on Cosmetics

What's Itching You? The Rub on Cosmetics

By Laurine Brown, PhD, MPH

Contact dermatitis: Symptoms like swelling, itching, inflammation caused by irritants or allergens and sensitizers.

Irritant: Causes non-allergic inflammatory reaction occurring at site of exposure, usually within minutes to hours of contact. Symptoms usually subside when exposure stops.

Allergens and sensitizers: Symptoms similar to irritation, but involves immune system so reactions appear 24-48 hours after exposure, may persist days or weeks, and may show up anywhere on body. Also because of heightened sensitivity, subsequent exposures may cause symptoms at very low levels to original or related chemicals. (Beware of a "delayed hypersensitivity" where you can use a product for a long time before becoming sensitized to it.)

Have you ever developed a headache or itchy eyes from the smell of a fragrance? The lingering scent of a friend's perfume put an inescapable damper on my holiday celebrating not long ago. I'm not alone, since at least 15 percent of people suffer from contact dermatitis (in the form of allergies, sensitization or irritation) caused by chemicals in personal care products, and fragrances top the list of offenders. But this figure just scratches the surface of the dark side of beauty products. Aside from acute distress, emerging evidence implicates cosmetic chemicals as culprits in chronic illnesses like asthma, cancer, nervous system disorders, and even infertility. Since we absorb 60% of what we put on our skin -- be it moisturizers, shaving lotion, makeup or cologne -- our toiletries most certainly become us. We should know just what we're rubbing on. Do you?

Unfortunately, consumers are hard-pressed to find any helpful information on the mysteries behind the alluring mask of their cosmetics. Cosmetics are the least regulated of all products under FDA's control. Current laws do not require companies to pre-test products, obtain approval, register ingredients, or even inform FDA of adverse reactions reported by consumers. Instead an industry-created review board determines product safety. Accurate labeling of all ingredients is required. But fragrances, colors, flavorings and other "trade-secrets" (substances topping the list of irritants and allergens) are exempt. Attempts by FDA to establish official definitions of terms, like "natural" or "hypoallergenic" have failed. What should you do?

For starters, get out a magnifying glass. Read the label. And choose products that avoid these dirty dozen ingredients. Then tune in next month for a concerning chemical you likely won't find on the label.

1. DEA/TEA (Diethanolamine/triethanolamine): Surfactant/wetting agents in shampoos, often combined with other compounds like "cocamide DEA" or "TEA sodium lauryl sulfate". DEA and TEA can interact with nitrates (in preservatives or contaminants) to form potent carcinogenic nitrosamines. Safer alternative: vegetable glycerine.

2. Imidazolidinyl urea: Common synthetic preservative used in shampoos. Releases formaldehyde, an irritant, carcinogen, and neurotoxin. Well established as primary cause of contact dermatitis (American Academy of Dermatology). Other chemicals with formaldehyde-releasing properties include 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1, 3-diol; diazolidinyl urea; DMDM hydantoin; Quaternieum-15. Safer alternatives: grapefruit seed extract (citrus seed extract) and vitamins A, C, and E.

3. Lanolin: Fatty secretion from sheep's wool, an excellent absorbing agent. But can be contaminated with DDT and other neurotoxic or carcinogenic pesticides. The National Academy of Sciences warns that these pesticides may be easily absorbed when lanolin is applied topically. Safer alternatives: pesticide-free lanolin, pure essential oils (especially jojoba or white camellia).

4. Methyl and propyl paraben: Common synthetic preservative inhibits microbial growth and extends shelf life. Also known as p-hydroxybenzoate (or PHB esters). After imidazolidinyl urea, can be leading cause of allergic reactions and skin rashes.Safer alternatives: grapefruit seed extract (citrus seed extract) and vitamins A, C, and E.

5. Petrolatum: A non-renewable fossil fuel, this mineral oil jelly is popular because it is extremely cheap. But it can make skin photosensitive, and may interfere with the body's own natural moisturizing mechanism, causing dry skin and chapping, the very condition it claims to alleviate. Safer alternative: jojoba oil.

6. Proplyene glycol: Synthetic petroleum-based form of glycerine. An emulsifier (keeps oil and water from separating) and humectant (locks-in moisture). Major cause of allergic reactions, clogged pores, and blemishes. Safer alternative: vegetable glycerine.

7. PVP/VA copolymers: Widely used in hairsprays and stylish gels, these petroleum-based plastics coat the hair and make it look dull. Considered toxic since particles may contribute foreign bodies in lungs of sensitive persons. Safer alternatives: herbal gums like acacia and tragacanth gums, or larch gum (Larex).

8. Silica: Used in creams, lotions, and powders. Can cause fibrosis of the lung and other respiratory disorders when inhaled. Safer alternatives: psyllium husks powder and lecithin

9. Synthetic colors: Often made from coal tar, artificial colors like FD&C Red 4, D&C Red 33, FD&C Red 40, FD&C Blue 1, FD&C Green 3, FD&C Yellow 5, FD&C Yellow 6 have been shown to cause cancer. Some dyes also contain toxic heavy metal impurities, like arsenic and lead. Of particular concern are dyes in lipsticks which women use (literally consume) up to 18 hours a day. Also may cause allergic reactions. Safer alternatives: synthetic color-free products, plant-based pigments

10. Synthetic fragrances: Most scented products replace the original 200 plant-derived essential oils with cheaper synthetic scents made from petroleum. Both natural and synthetic fragrances can cause distress including irritation, allergic and asthma reactions, respiratory problems, lethargy, and perhaps increased risk of cancer. But pure essential oils often contain only a few chemicals, unlike artificial fragrances that may blend up to 600 chemicals, some toxic (like methylene chloride and toluene). Weak laws allow these suspect scents to simply be labeled "fragrance". Safer alternative: look for true fragrance free, or use pure essential oils.

11. Synthetic hair dyes: Regular use of permanent and semi-permanent hair colors (especially dark brown and black) is strongly associated with increased risk of cancer, namely Hodgkins, non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, multiple myeloma and perhaps leukemia and breast cancer. Especially avoid "phenylenediamine." Safer alternatives: henna and plant-based dyes.

12. Talc: Used in most powder make-ups, also talcum powder. Linked to ovarian cancer when used near genitals, and a known lung carcinogen that can be inhaled during application. Safer alternatives: Corn or rice starch powder.

Fortunately some reputable companies strive for safer products, like Aubrey Organics, Neways, Paul Penders, Ecco Bella, Bare Escentuals, Dr. Hauschka, Logona. See the "body care" section of Co-op American's National Green Pages directory at www.greenpages.org. Go for simple products with the fewest ingredients, avoiding some of the most suspect ingredients above. Consider only putting things on your skin that you would put in your mouth, since much is absorbed. Refer to "The Safe Shopper's Bible by D. Steinman and S. Epstein for in-depth guidance on safer product choices. Or try making your own. See "Better Basics for the Home" by A Berthold-Bond, 1999 or "The Take-Charge Beauty Book", by A Hampton and S Hussey, 2001.

Natural: Implies ingredients came directly from nature. But even petroleum, the non-renewable base of most cosmetics, is from nature. Products labeled "natural" may contain some good plant-based ingredients. But watch out for synthetic dyes and fragrances, colorings, and preservatives.

Hypoallergenic: While most common allergens are usually left out, other potential irritants may still be in the mix. For example, Almay's "hypoallergenic" eye shadows contain the carcinogen and lung irritant talc.

Alcohol free: Traditionally means doesn't contain ethyl alcohol, but may still contain other alcohols like cetyl alcohol.

Fragrance free: Merely means the product has no perceptible odor. But synthetic fragrance ingredients may be added to mask odors from raw materials.

References
Co-op America, "Kinder, Gentler Body Care," Real Money Jan/Feb 2002, pp1, 6-7

Steinman D and S Epstein, "Cosmetics and Personal Care Products" in "The Safe Shoppers Bible," 1995, pp181-294.

Hamptom, A, "10 Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients to Avoid," Aubrey Organics, www.aubrey-organics.com, viewed 12/20/2002