IWU Environmental Wellness: Safer Path: Cosmetic Cover-Up: Baby Boys and Hidden Phthalates

An ad in a popular parenting magazine caught my eye a few years back. It showed a happy mother in a sunny home. The message, from a cosmetic company, was something like "We know you want to put your best face forward for your family. Use our products." Sure, I like most mothers of young children felt somewhat disheveled from sleepless nights. But at the time I remember feeling rather disgusted with the shallow persuasion to "cover-up" my outer imperfections, as if an unblemished rosy-painted face would make up for inner parenting chaos. I tucked the feeling away, assuming I was simply a marketing deviant.

Today, that unsettling feeling is back, but with a new face. Emerging science is suggesting that concern with the cosmetic cover-up is more than surface deep. While cosmetics are still heavily marketed to women, including pregnant women, we are learning that chemicals used extensively in cosmetics (and many everyday products) may be particularly damaging to a developing fetus, especially boys. Disturbingly, an expectant mother’s attempts to make herself pretty may in turn emasculate her unborn son.

The oddly-spelled offending chemicals on trial here are phthalates (pronounced thalates). Phthalates are a family of petroleum-based chemical plasticizers widely used in fragrances, deodorants, nail polishes, hair products and lotions (as well as flexible PVC plastics like plastic wrap, children’s toys, IV bags). A heightened interest in health effects of phthalates was spurred in March 2001 when a government study revealed that levels of phthalates in American’s bodies (measured in urine or blood) were much higher than previously believed. Seven types of phthalates were found. But every one of the 289 people tested carried a metabolized form of one type of phthalate -- dibutyl phthalate (DBP). Most disturbing was that women of childbearing age (20 to 40), whose fetuses are exposed to DBP in the womb, had the highest exposures.

This is troubling because DBP is a suspected reproductive toxin. Animal studies show that DBP and other phthalates can damage every physical part of the developing male reproductive system, causing testicular atrophy, absent testes, and reduced sperm count. Timing of exposure is critical: harm was done to animals exposed in the womb or shortly after birth. A December 2002 study by Harvard researchers also found a correlation between sperm damage in men and body levels of diethyl phthalate (DEP; common in fragrances, perfumes). For little girls the news isn’t much better. A September 2000 Puerto Rican study found very high levels of DBP and other phthalates in 68 percent of girls under eight years old who had premature breast development. Data from laboratory studies indicate that DBP can act like a hormone, leading it to be labeled a suspected human endocrine disruptor. Given nationwide evidence of dropping sperm counts, rising rates of hypospadius (male birth defects) and early puberty in girls, we should be concerned.

Where is our body burden of phthalates coming from? The math is amiss, since, phthalates are rarely noted on product labels. But cosmetics are top suspects. So in May 2002 a coalition of environmental and public health organizations contracted with a major national laboratory to test 72 popular off-the-shelf beauty products for phthalates. In their report Not So Pretty they reveal that 52 (75%) of these 72 products tested contained phthalates -- like hair sprays, deodorants and fragrances of Pantene, Aqua Net, Arrid, Degree, Christian Dior, Revlon, Calvin Klein, Proctor & Gamble, and more. None of the 52 phthalate-containing products listed the offending chemical on its ingredient label. Similarly, a 2000 report Beauty Secrets by Environmental Working Group found DBP in a third of nail polishes on the market.

In November 2002, the European Union moved to ban use of DBP (and another phthalate DEHP) in cosmetics. But despite concerns expressed by public health, consumer and women’s groups, the industry-funded US Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel announced that phthalates were "safe as currently used". So for now, it is up to you, the consumer, to decide if you need protection.

Avoiding Phthalates: What You Can Do

Choose unscented products or those scented with simple essential oils from botanical sources. Avoid products that contain unspecified "fragrance". These often contain hidden phthalates, protected from labeling as "trade secrets" by FDA.
Or choose products from companies that publicly vow not to use phthalates: Aubrey Organics, Avalon, Kiss My Face, Jason, Logona, Nature’s Gate, Speickwerk, Terressentials, Tom’s of Maine, and Weleda.
For lists of phthalate-free cosmetics by brand see www.nottoopretty.org. Also see ww.thegreenguide.com for nail polish, shampoo and deodorant product reports.
Ask your favorite cosmetic company to discontinue use of phthalates by sending an email, letter or phoning.
Write the FDA seeking removal of phthalates. See www.nottoopretty.org.

"Chemicals that cause birth defects do not belong in products marketed to women of childbearing age." Not-Too-Pretty Report, EWG 2002

References:
"National Report on Human Exposure to Environmental Chemicals" Centers for Disease Control, Sept 2000, viewed on www.cdc.gov/nceh/dls/report.

"Not Too Pretty: Phthalates, Beauty Products & the FDA" by J Houlihan, C Brody, B Schwan; study sponsored by Environmental Working Group, Health Care Without Harm & Coming Clean July 8, 2002. Viewed on www.nottoopretty.org.

"Taking Personal Care" by D Dicostanzo, The Green Guide, #94, Jan/Feb 2003.

"Beauty Tips" by P Lundquist, The Green Guide, #94, Jan/Feb 2003.

"Shopping Guide: The Good, The Bad & The Ugly", The Green Guide, #94, Jan/Feb 2003.

The Green Guide "Product Reports" for nail products, make-up, shampoo at www.thegreenguide.com, viewed 1/27/03.

"Aggregate Exposure to Phthalates in Humans" by Health Care Without Harm, July 2002, viewed at www.nottoopretty.org.

"Identification of Phthalate Esters in the Serum of Young Puerto Rican Girls with Premature Breast Development" by Colon et al, Environmental Health Perspectives 108:9 Sept 2000.

"Beauty Secrets" by Environmental Working Group, 2002, viewed at www.ewg.org.